And this time, we go North!
For our European reunion, Emma and I chose to meet up in the previously unexplored (to us) northwest region of Galicia! We had the perfect weekend hiking in the sun and sharing one delicious meal after another. The entire trip felt veiled in good luck since things kept going better than expected and we accidentally found some magical spots. I am so incredibly grateful I got the chance to explore a new region of Spain with my one of my best friends, so thank you, Em, for a wonderful trip <3
Our Galician adventure began late on Thursday night with a dramatic we-haven't-seen-each-other-since-Christmas reunion scene (complete with a running hug) in the Santiago de Compostela airport. My plane from Málaga arrived an hour-ish after Emma's from Madrid and we were both so excited to see each other. We decided an immediate bedtime was needed since it was almost 1 am when we arrived at the Airbnb. However, we had all the overtired giddy energy of a middle school sleepover and stayed up laughing and talking well past that time.
Santiago de Compostela, the capital of Galicia, is an outdoor-activity minded place since it is surrounded by beautiful countryside and miles upon miles of hiking trails. It is also home to the cathedral which marks the end of the pilgrimage that the multitude of El Camino routes lead to. All of the people ending their long walking or cycling journeys in the city added to such a unique atmosphere, and it really inspired me consider completing the Northern route next year if I renew in Spain.
Knowing the hiking would be next level, Emma and I planned a half-day excursion into the mountainous pine and eucalyptus forests around the city. We went to a nearby breakfast place (that was sloth themed!) to fuel up before we started off. Although we both agreed we prefer our eggs more well done, it was a yummy combo and the perfect pre-cardio meal.
Our walking route took us through the city and by the famous cathedral. We stopped for some quick pictures before continuing along a river that quickly led us to smaller country roads lined with adorable cottages. Since the north of Spain gets almost as much rain as England, every surface was blindly green and covered by moss, grass or ferns.
Emma and I were both overwhelmed with this charming part of town that looked like it was taken straight from the pages of a fairytale. It was also such a stark contrast from bone dry southern Spain and I felt like I was in a different country.
After admiring some old stone foundations and trying to bushwhack our way to the where the map wanted us to be, we decided to make our own loop on some already established roads. Spotting the classic yellow El Camino arrows were an exciting reminder of the area we were exploring. I think we pointed them out to each other almost every time we saw one!
Feeling a bit hungry after our 6ish mile loop, we stopped in a bakery for a sweet treat and a cold drink. The mystery fruit tart (maybe apple? maybe pear?) we chose was nothing special but we definitely needed the little sugar boost.
Needing a break from the sun, we went home and got ourselves presentable for lunch at an adorable vegetarian place right around the corner from our Airbnb. We split a delicious meal consisting of curried sweet corn hummus, warm pitas, fried eggplant cakes and perfectly seasoned mashed sweet potatoes. Everything hit the spot and we both loved the uniqueness of the hummus and eggplant cakes!
We decided to wander around the city and find a green area to relax and enjoy the rest of the afternoon. The park where we ended up was full of lush grass and little patches of wildflowers that made a beautiful mix. There were also people lounging around, reading, juggling and laughing which created a lovely atmosphere.
Emma and I found a little, partially shaded spot of grass to set up camp and take in our surroundings. I made a daisy chain that ended up being too short to function as a necklace and we spent quite a while watching a couple attempt various juggling and balancing acts. The books we brought remained untouched since we simply had too much to chat and laugh about. It was a perfect afternoon!
We strolled around the city, which was getting more lively post siesta, looking for some gelato to hold us over until dinner. One of the stores, Bico de Xeado (Gallego for "Kiss of Icecream"), had a decently sized line and we figured that the gelato must be worth waiting for. When we got inside and had our flavors picked, we were informed that it was actually a special offer of two gelatos for the price of one! Nothing like a BOGO treat to make it even sweeter :)
After some much needed showers, we bundled up and went in search of dinner. Even though it was mid 80s during the day, and probably even higher in the sun, once nighttime rolls around, the temperature tends to drop quite quickly. Emma and I chose an outdoor terrace in a little square to share some tortilla española and grilled veggies. It was simple but very tasty indeed.
Our night came to a close after splitting a piece of a famous Galician dessert called Tarta de Santiago. This speciality is an almond forward, very dense cake that is rich and delicious. We went home buzzing from all the sun and good food and increasingly excited for the next day!
We began our Saturday in a similar manner to our first day with a quick breakfast (this time of yogurt bowls) and another hike into the mountains. This time around our map didn't fail us and we were able to follow the planned route along the river, through some eucalyptus groves, and up some steeper forested paths to the top of Monte Pedroso.
After enjoying the views of Santiago from above and trying (and failing) to catch some very large lizards, we made our way back into town. On the way down, we found two adorable dogs who seemed to be ownerless and very excited about their temporary state of freedom. They jumped all over us before their owner came running up the road and told them off for escaping once again.
Back in Santiago we stopped at a bakery to buy some treats and a loaf of bread for our picnic dinner plan. Even with asking for recommendations from the woman behind the counter, it us far too long to decide on which delicious looking baked goods we wanted to try. We ended up with a fruit and cream croissant and a chocolate filled pastry which were both the perfect way to get some quick energy after our morning excursion.
Needing to rest our feet and legs a bit, we gratefully recharged and refreshed at home before wandering to a different side of the city to eat at a market for lunch. Mercado la Galiciana is an upscale, prepared foods market that has a great smattering of traditional Spanish dishes and classics that are specific to the region. Emma and I decided to continue our trend of splitting and sharing with some octopus croquettes, a cod empanada and a goat cheese salad.
It was an interesting mix of items and I am glad we had some pulpo (octopus) since it is so famous in Galicia. However, the salad was definitely the award winner of the meal for me!
In our typical fashion, Emma and I wandered around the city post lunch and popped into a few vintage/thrift clothing stores before buying some picnic essentials for our dinner. Em had the great idea of revisiting our park from the day before to have a sunset picnic and I was all in the second she told me the idea. We grabbed cheese, quince jam, grapes, raspberries and some white wine to serve as our spread for the event.
A bit exhausted from the afternoon heat, we returned to the Airbnb to prep a bit for the picnic. Emma taught me how to play the card game Rummy and we quickly passed the few hours before sunset. Right before leaving for the park, we discovered that there was not a singular cup, bowl or plate in our kitchen...not sure why there was even a kitchen since there was nothing to eat or drink out of.
Despite the slight hiccup with the missing cups and plates, we still had the most wonderful, picturesque picnic. The park was even more beautiful than the previous day and there were many groups of friends with the same idea as us. The combination of the sunset and the little picnic setups all over the grass made for a magical evening.
The sun already sets around 9:30 pm in Spain and it stays light enough to see long after that. Because of this, we were able to stay and enjoy the park until almost 10 pm and it was a wonderful, lazy beginning to our night. The food we brought was all tasty but the wine we chose was a disappointment. Drinking it out of the bottle/my biking water bottle did not add anything to the experience either...
Wanting to celebrate our last night in Santiago, we dropped our bags at home and went to find an outdoor table to have a drink. We found the perfect spot in a small square to enjoy the vibrant atmosphere of the city over a beer for Emma and a much better glass of white wine for me. The bar surprised us with a lovely tapa even at such a late hour and we were very happy with this ending to our perfect time in Santiago.
The next morning we caught an early train to the coastal city of A Coruña that I had heard amazing things about from my coworkers in Motril. The short train ride through the countryside and pine forests was gorgeous and a very calming, way to start our Sunday.
We walked from the station to the older section of town by the port to find a breakfast spot so we could set down our bags and get some fuel. On the way there we stumbled upon the main square with their beautiful city hall all decked out with towers of purple flowers. Being a Sunday morning in Spain, there was hardly anyone else out and about so we got to take in the views of the nearly empty plaza.
A Coruña is sometimes referred to as the "City of Glass" since there is a strip of apartment buildings along the water that have glassed-in balconies. These galerÃas, as they are known in Spanish, are a popular, distinctive design that the city has become renowned for.
It was a bit strange to see architectural adaptations that encourage sunlight to enter into the buildings since in the south almost every measure is taken to ensure the contrary. However, the result of the intricate maze of windows is quite mesmerising, and I fell in love with the look and feel of A Coruña almost immediately.
Emma and I found a sunny spot along the pier to have some delicious coffee and the most aesthetically pleasing tomato toast. We also received a small breakfast tapa (who knew that was a thing!) of coffee cake to accompany our lattes and we decided if we ever open a coffee shop together, breakfast tapas are a must.
We decided to go for an oceanside stroll after we finished eating since we still had a few hours before we could check into our Airbnb. A Coruña is quite the active city and the promenade along the sea was full of people walking, running and cycling. Emma and I headed along the coastline to see if we could find a place to swim but the majority of the landscape was rocky and steep with not one sliver of beach.
On our way back into town to check into our place, we stumbled upon a childrens handball tournament that had drawn a crowd. We stopped to watch the young competitors in what would be the last bit of sunlight we got during our time in Galicia. The weather had begun to turn misty and it only continued to get more and more foggy as the day progressed, finally giving us a taste of what is typical in northern Spain.
After stowing away our things and optimistically changing into bathing suits, Emma and I walked across the peninsula to one of the most famous landmarks in A Coruña, El Torre de Hercules (The Tower of Hercules). This monument is a UNESCO World Heritage Site because it is the only fully preserved Roman lighthouse that still provides navigation assistance.
Although it was too cloudy to fully appreciate the lighthouse itself, the weather really enhanced the striking natural beauty of the coast. The Tower of Hercules is surrounded by sloping cliff-sides of heather and other plant that lead down to a small cove.
We found a spot up on the rocks to watch the waves and take in the captivating power of the ocean. It really felt like we were the only ones on this edge of the world and with the weather, I would have believed we were in Ireland or Scotland without a second thought.
Eventually, we meandered down the path to check out a small beach that was just visible through the fog. Emma and I are not ones to shy away from swimming in some cold water (we've done the polar plunge in CT together twice!) but we decided against going in since we did not have towels with us and we were quite a distance from home. We'll have to redeem ourselves when we return to Galicia!
By this time in the afternoon we were both pretty hungry (tomato toast is not the most filling breakfast longterm) but we decided to hold off on stopping at a place until we got back to the busier side of town. I am SO glad we did not rush to find a lunch spot because the restaurant chose ended up being my favorite of the trip and we had an incredible time.
The waiter gave us the option of a few different tables and we jumped at the opportunity to sit in a window nook that overlooked a side street. It was the perfect little spot to people watch and since we had our backs to the rest of the restaurant, it almost felt like we were the only ones there. This was truly one of my favorite overall dining experiences ever <3
We ordered a tomato, pesto and burrata salad as well as a plate of fried squid that came with kimchi mayonnaise and squid ink. Every bite was better than the last and the bread selection they gave us was the best we had all trip. I could have stayed in that restaurant all day long but we decided to spend some of the cloudier hours back at our place playing Rummy.
Emma and I decided to revisit our favorite gelato brand and try some new flavors while enjoying the view of the A Coruña harbor. It was just as tasty as we remembered but really cooled us down since the sun was nowhere to be found.
We wrapped up our lovely weekend trip together with a lovely wine bar that was directly across the street from our Airbnb. Our server was so helpful in selecting a delicious white wine for me and we really felt right at home. We shared some croquettes and topped it all off with a pineapple tart that might just take the cake for the most delicious dessert of the trip!
Our time in Galicia absolutely flew by and I am so beyond grateful that we had the opportunity to explore a new area of Spain together. This post truly does not do justice to the endless amounts laughter and fun we had together and I cannot wait for our trips together well into our retired years :)
Gracias por volver a visitarme Em. Te quiero muchÃsimo <3
